flyminion: (Shine)
2024-08-25 11:59 pm

Linville Gorge - Babel Tower river walk

Today, I did a river walk around the entire Babel Tower peninsula in Linville Gorge with my brother, Brian, and his girlfriend, Rachel. We had scouted the river downstream of Babel Tower to the Devil’s Hole Trail in winter of 2021, and I had river-walked upstream of Babel Tower in summer of 2022, but I had yet to explore the section of the river that rounds the Babel Tower peninsula. There is no trail along that section, so it’s only "safe" to attempt in summer temperatures when the water is low. This was the perfect time to do it, because we are currently in a drought with single-digit rain chances. As with my previous Linville Gorge entries, all rapid names are per American Whitewater and A Wet State.

I got a sneak peak at this section of the river during my first visit to Babel Tower Falls in 2017 with my friend Ty. I wandered about a quarter-mile downstream, but he was waiting for me back at the main swimming hole, so I turned back at a rapid called Nowhere to Run, where the river flowed through a 250-foot-long channel with near-vertical cliffs on both sides. It looked like passing through this area might involve a full body swim, which would be problematic with a backpack. I bought a smaller mesh backpack last year with this specific excursion in mind (but also in anticipation of some Yuba River tubing in California that didn’t come to fruition), and this was my first time getting to use it. I brought a Ziploc bag for my socks, so the only things I needed to keep dry were my hiking boots, and I figured I could hold them above my head if there were any mandatory swims. I thought my snorkel might poke a hole in my bag, so I only brought my diving mask (so all mentions of me "snorkeling" don’t actually involve a snorkel).

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, this section of the gorge had a little more going on than I thought. We found several legit swimming holes, some with low jumps (or maybe higher ones if you’re confident with precision landings). The most significant pools were Used to be a Portage, Sweet Shoulder Boof, Up Against the Wall, and Nowhere to Run. I didn’t spend much time scoping out the latter two, especially Nowhere to Run, but that one is relatively easy to reach from Babel Tower Falls, so I could possibly explore it further on a future excursion. None of today’s new swimming holes usurped the ones on my Linville Gorge top 3 list (Cathedral, Bob Ross Gorge, and Cave Falls), but this was a very scenic river walk, and I would say it’s the most rugged section of the gorge floor that I’ve seen so far.
flyminion: (Shine)
2024-08-24 11:59 pm

Panthertown Valley - Tuckasegee River waterfalls

Today, I checked out the waterfalls on the Tuckasegee River in Panthertown Valley in the Nantahala National Forest. This area had been on my back burner since the third edition of Kevin Adams’ North Carolina Waterfalls book came out in 2016. The state is currently experiencing an uncharacteristically long stretch of dry weather, and the rivers in the southwestern part of the state are very low, which opens up some of the larger ones for swimming. I had wanted to take advantage of this by checking out some new spots on the Horsepasture River, but they were too secluded to check out safely, and I couldn’t rope anyone into going with me. I thought about revisiting the touristy parts of the river, but I felt like I should check out something new, so Panthertown it was.

Panthertown Valley has over ten waterfalls, so today I planned to hike downstream along the Tuckasegee River and check out Warden, Jawbone, Riding Ford, Elbow, and Red Butt Falls. A sixth waterfall, Lichen Falls, spills into the river from a small tributary stream about half a mile downstream of Red Butt Falls and is only accessible by creek-walking or bushwhacking. Jawbone Falls was the only one on today’s agenda with a guaranteed swimming hole, but Elbow Falls looked like it might also have a small one. Panthertown’s most popular waterfall, Schoolhouse Falls on Greenland Creek, was only a quarter-mile detour from my route, so I planned to check it out as well, as it was unclear from pictures if the pool at its base was deep enough to be a swimming hole.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, I wasn’t really blown away by any of the waterfalls or swimming holes today. I thought they were all kind of mid, as the kids say, but if I had to pick a favorite, it would probably be Warden Falls, which I would not have expected. It was the second best waterfall and the overall nicest spot, since it had a legit swimming hole. The best waterfall per se was probably Jawbone Falls, but its swimming hole was disappointing due to the underwater clutter and lack of flat rocks for lounging. The middle portion of Red Butt Falls passes with a C- for a legit water slide. It wasn’t very fast or steep, but it offered a good 10-15 feet of smooth sliding. I’m not sure I would make a special trip to check out the rest of the Panthertown waterfalls, but I might consider returning to tie up loose ends if I happen to be in the area and need a filler excursion. It might have to be on a day with subpar weather, though, because I kind of regretted passing up a sunny, low-flow day at the Horsepasture River for this.
flyminion: (Tub)
2024-07-17 11:59 pm

Lynn Canyon

Today, I went to Lynn Canyon in Vancouver, BC. I am here for three days with eight friends for our 20-year high school reunion (are we really that old?!), and whenever I’m along for a trip, you know I’m going to try to sneak a swimming hole excursion into it. We had tried to plan a Vancouver trip in 2015, and Lynn Canyon came onto my radar when I was looking for outdoorsy things to do in the area. It features a suspension bridge and several swimming holes both upstream and downstream of the bridge (plus a crazy natural water slide below the bridge that ends in a 30-foot drop, and which I have no desire to try). I assumed the water here would be pretty cold given how far north it is, but the park is only about ten minutes from our Airbnb, so I figured it was worth checking out if I could rope anyone into going with me (or dropping me off).

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, Lynn Canyon was a nice swimming hole destination, and the water wasn’t as cold as I was expecting from a Canadian swimming hole, which may be due to the water coming off the top of a lake just upstream. The temperature was similar to mountain streams back in North Carolina. The setting kind of reminded me of Blue Hole near Elizabethton, TN, but with more waterfalls and swimming holes. My only gripe is that it was too crowded, being that it’s in the city, accessible by public transit, and a short hike along mostly boardwalks and stairs. If I’m ever back in the area, I’d like to check out the Twin Falls swimming hole, and maybe see if there are any accessible areas of the canyon between the suspension bridge and Twin Falls (it looked like most areas were fenced off and plastered with warning signs about how cliff jumping is stupid). I probably wouldn’t try to get to the swimming holes under the suspension bridge, because it looks like you’d have to commit to canyoneering through unknown terrain for a significant distance to get in and out of that area.
flyminion: (Turtle)
2024-06-14 11:59 pm

Lost Cove Creek walk

Today, I returned to Lost Cove Creek for the first time since 2015 to explore the area downstream of Hunt Fish Falls. The last time I visited, I did it as part of a combined hike with the waterfalls of Gragg Prong (a tributary whose confluence is a little less than a mile downstream of Hunt Fish) along the Mountains to Sea Trail (MST). I didn’t check out any other areas of Lost Cove Creek because I assumed Hunt Fish Falls was its only point of interest. However, when I was swimming at Gragg Prong on the return hike, a kid mentioned that there was a good slide just downstream of Hunt Fish Falls, so I’ve always been slightly curious to return and check it out. I subsequently looked on Google Earth, and there did appear to be some possible slides between Hunt Fish Falls and the Gragg Prong confluence. A recent kayaking video on YouTube seemed to confirm this, but it’s hard to tell in high water if a slide is hospitable for butt-sliding in summer flows. There was only one way to find out.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, I guess Lost Cove Creek is a one hit wonder after all. I didn’t really find anything interesting downstream of Hunt Fish Falls. There were a few small swimming holes, but they were fairly unremarkable. The swimming hole about a mile upstream of Hunt Fish was also nothing interesting. There were three small slide cascades downstream of the falls, but they weren’t suitable for butt-sliding. It’s possible that the kid who mentioned a slide there was referring to the sloped bedrock along the side of the Hunt Fish Falls plunge pool, as opposed to one of the cascades.
flyminion: (Turtle)
2024-06-01 11:59 pm

Upper Wilson Creek

Today, Brian and I walked upper Wilson Creek between FR 192 and Edgemont Road. We had previously hiked the Wilson Creek Trail in 2018, and creek-walked the section of Wilson Creek between the trail and FR 192 in 2019. During the latter excursion, we had briefly looked at the creek just downstream of the Edgemont Road bridge and saw that it had some small sliding cascades and was hemmed by cliffs as it quickly dropped out of sight. We had always been curious to return and walk the creek between FR 192 and Edgemont Road to see if there was anything interesting there, but five years went by and we never got around to it. On our previous excursions, we had checked out 13 out of 15 points of interest (POIs) I marked on Google Earth as potential swimming holes. POIs 14 and 15 are upstream of FR 192, and there is no good satellite imagery upstream of POI 15, so the upstream half of that section has always been a mystery. I wasn’t expecting to find any significant swimming holes there, but I thought there could be some nice cascades since the creek loses over 600 feet of elevation between the two roads.

I’ve noticed that the first weekend in June is almost always dry, which held true this year, although it wasn’t particularly warm in the mountains (today's forecast called for mid 60s). Since the weather wasn’t ideal for swimming, I decided now was the time to check out upper Wilson, since I wasn’t expecting to find any significant swimming holes.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, this section of Wilson Creek didn't have anything remarkable, but there was one legit swimming hole, and a 25-30 foot waterfall about 100 feet back on a small side-stream. Other than that, the creek was basically a series of small sliding cascades and shallow pools, similar to Little Wilson Creek upstream of Edgemont Road. It did seem like the slides were starting to get bigger toward the upstream end of the walk, so it’s possible there might be higher cascades upstream, between Edgemont Road and the Blue Ridge Parkway. However, I probably wouldn’t check that out unless I really needed something to do.
flyminion: (Blue Spring)
2023-08-28 11:59 pm

South Yuba River - Purdon Crossing to Edwards Crossing - Part 3

Cade and I decided to spend the last two days of our trip visiting swimming holes on one of our favorite California rivers: the South Yuba. We checked out some new swimming holes near Purdon Crossing yesterday, and we returned to Lemke’s Lagoon and the Highway 49 area today. I’m not dedicating a separate entry to the latter since I’ve already blogged it and don’t have many new developments, so this entry will mainly focus on our explorations at the Purdon Crossing area.

Since yesterday was a Sunday, we figured all parking areas for the river would be crowded. However, Purdon Crossing seems to be slightly less popular (which is not saying much) than Edwards Crossing and Highway 49, so we decided it would be better for a weekend. A while back, I had scanned Google Earth and marked nine points of interest (POIs) on the five-mile stretch of river between Purdon Crossing and Edwards Crossing, numbered in order from downstream to upstream. We checked out POIs 1 and 2 in 2019, and we checked out POIs 5 and 9 in 2021 (6-8 were on private property, so we were unable to get to them). POIs 3 and 4 were never a high priority, as they didn’t look terribly interesting on Google Earth, but I figured we might as well complete our explorations of this section of the river since we were in the area.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, POIs 3 and 4 upstream of Purdon Crossing didn’t top anything we’d previously seen on this stretch of the river, but they didn’t disappoint, either. Although some South Yuba swimming holes are more exciting than others, I have yet to encounter one that I thought was lame. POI 4 was much larger than 3 and had a little more going on than I assumed from first glance, but it’s also a little less accessible and doesn’t have as many flat lounging rocks that are reachable without swimming. POI 3 was still fairly large with a low jump, and it was more geologically interesting than 4. Even though these two POIs are accessible by trail, they’re still over two miles from either crossing, apparently making them less crowded even on a weekend. Now that I’ve checked out all my (legally accessible) POIs between Purdon and Edwards Crossings, I would say the highlight is POI 1 (China Dam), followed by POI 5, which is the largest and probably receives fewer visitors on account of it being more than a two-mile hike from the road in either direction. POIs 2-4 aren’t necessarily standouts, but they seem to offer a bit more seclusion since the swimming holes closer to the road draw off the exercise-averse crowds. I think it would be fun to tube this entire section of the river on a future trip, which would allow us to legally(?) float through POIs 6-8.

As for the Highway 49 area, it was nice to return there after five years. I would say Lemke’s Lagoon still ranks as one of my top swimming holes on the South Yuba. It was also cool to finally explore the chute swimming hole above Hoyt’s Crossing. It didn’t have any safe jumps, but there were some fun sliding opportunities down the sloped granite bedrock lining the river.

This concludes our fifth California swimming hole marathon (I hesitate to say “fifth-annual” since we now seem to be in the pattern of doing them every other year). Normally I rank the swimming holes we visited at the end of a trip, but the best ones were places we had already been to, and most of the new ones were bamboozled by less-than-ideal weather and/or hydrological conditions (especially the Yosemite ones), so I will have to suspend judgement on those until I can pay them proper visits in the future.
flyminion: (Jacuzzi)
2023-08-26 11:59 pm

Eldorado Teacups

Today, Cade and I went to some lesser known teacup swimming holes just above a lake in Eldorado National Forest. I'm keeping the location details vague on this one, because swimming holes and waterfalls in this area are prone to weekend crowds, but this spot has somehow managed to stay below the radar. It caught my attention when I saw it featured in some kayaking videos on YouTube. It looked to have many big slides and rock tubs, but all the videos were taken during torrential spring flows, and I couldn’t find any information on this place being used as a swimming hole spot or what it even looked like in summer flows. I figured the slides probably weren’t hospitable for butt-sliding, but it looked like there were probably several good swimming holes. I was mainly interested to check out a section called the Teacups, which is a series of small waterfalls spilling into deep-looking rock tubs. However, these are just above a 60-foot waterfall comprised of a steep series of cascades and tubs (boaters regard the upper and lower tiers of the waterfall as two separate rapids). Kayaking and waterfalling websites mentioned a use trail leading to the main waterfall, but they didn’t specify if it continued upstream to the Teacups. I assumed the waterfall was surmountable, as several kayaking videos showed spotters standing on the sloped bedrock slab next to it, so I was confident enough to take a chance on exploring this area. I also figured it would be a good place for a Saturday excursion, since this spot seemed fairly unknown to anyone other than kayakers.

Another thing I was slightly concerned about was whether the creek flowed year-round or dried up in late summer. Google Earth imagery from different years seemed to indicate that it rarely goes completely dry, but it appeared to be only a trickle in drier years with less snowfall. However, I wasn’t too worried about it since this had been a record snowfall year. According to Dreamflows, the creek was flowing at ~14 cfs today.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, I ended up enjoying this spot more than I thought I would. It had crystal clear water and many sculpted rock pools to explore. It kind of reminded me of Rock Creek, although the surrounding scenery was not quite as striking. It didn’t have any major slides (at least not that would be slidable without a kayak), but it did have some potential low jumps that might be possible with a precision landing. I should note that I didn’t thoroughly explore the pools downstream of the main waterfall, so I can’t say for sure that there aren’t any serviceable jumps or slides there. The water temperature today was 61°F, but it felt a little warmer less freezing than that (maybe 64-ish). The air temperature was in the upper 70s, but the teacups got sun exposure all day, which made the warm rock slabs an ideal place to bask after a brisk swim. Perhaps the temperature is warmer in drier years, when the flow is probably much lower in late summer.
flyminion: (Shine)
2023-08-25 11:59 pm

Camp Nine & Blue Streak

Yesterday, Cade and I went to Camp Nine on the Stanislaus River, and today we went to our favorite California swimming hole: Blue Streak on the North Fork Stanislaus River. I’m not dedicating a separate entry to the latter, as I’ve already blogged it three times (in 2017, 2018, and 2019), so this entry is mainly about yesterday’s excursion to Camp Nine.

After the cooler weather in Yosemite the past three days, we were ready for the California swimming hole weather we know and love (i.e., hot AF with a zero percent chance of rain). It looked like yesterday was going to deliver. We decided not to do a fourth day in Yosemite, so we headed up to Murphys to hit Blue Streak. However, Cade wanted to save it for tomorrow when we could get there earlier, which meant we needed a filler excursion for today that was on the way there. I had considered the Preston Falls Trail on the Tuolumne River, but given the unseasonably cold water temperature of the upper section of the river the day before, I decided it would probably also be cold downstream of Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. Camp Nine, on the other hand, was near Murphys and on the Stanislaus River (downstream of the confluence of the North and Middle Forks). I’ve known about it since our first California swimming hole marathon in 2017 (a waitress or store clerk in Sonora had recommended it), but I’ve always regarded it as maybe-pile material. The pictures of it in Timothy Joyce’s Swimming Holes of California book show plenty of jumping opportunities, but it didn’t look very geologically interesting. Still, I figure anything in the watershed that gave us Blue Streak deserves a chance, and it’s only a half-mile hike from the road, so we decided to check it out.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, I was not really a fan of Camp Nine. It was like a colder, murkier version of the “Green Bridge”. The vertical elements were there, but the combination of the cold water and turbidity made it difficult to scope out the jumps. The water quality was no better than an Appalachian swimming hole (in fact, I’ve been to nicer spots in the Linville Gorge). I would liken it to the Guest River Gorge, although the water was not quite as nasty-looking. If the water were crystal clear and/or about ten degrees warmer, then this would be a great jumping spot, but it just wasn’t very pleasant under yesterday’s conditions. Blue Streak, on the other hand, was primo as always. After a streak of bad weather and cold swimming holes, we knew we could count on Blue Streak to make it all better.
flyminion: (Slide UC)
2023-08-23 11:01 pm

Tenaya Creek Slide & Tuolumne Meadows

For the third day of our trip, Cade and I went to the Tenaya Creek Slide in Yosemite, which is a massive natural waterslide where Tenaya Creek flows over a vast expanse of solid granite downstream of Tenaya Lake on its way to Yosemite Valley. The creek is very seasonal and normally dries up by the end of July. However, the record snowpack made it difficult to predict when the seasonal creeks would dry up this year, so I was hoping it would still be running in late August. I could see from Glacier Point on Monday that Tenaya Creek was definitely flowing, so I knew we were good to check it out today.

Before we went to the slide, I wanted to do some recon on the upper Tuolumne River for possible future excursions. I had originally thought about hiking to Glen Aulin on this trip, which is on the Tuolumne River a few miles downstream of Tuolumne Meadows. However, this section of the river actually has a temperature gauge, and it indicated the water temperature was currently in the 50s (as opposed to upper 60s or even low 70s in low/normal snowfall years). It had been about 60 °F before the storms came through on Sunday and Monday, but I’m guessing the rain must have washed some of the snowmelt into the river and made it colder. Still, I wanted to get a look at some of the closest swimming holes to the road just to get an idea of what the geology and water clarity looked like in person. It looked like we could get a sneak peek by hiking about a mile on the Pothole Dome Trail to where the river flowed over some exposed bedrock on the downstream end of Tuolumne Meadows. I was also interested in seeing a little bit of the Lyell Fork Tuolumne River, as it looked to have clear, blue water, and I had marked one point of interest on Google Earth near a footbridge about a mile upstream of the road at the Tuolumne Lodge.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, the Tenaya Creek slide was an okay natural waterslide, but it wasn’t great for butt-sliding at today’s flow due to the difficulty of getting an obstacle-free route to the bottom. It would probably be best enjoyed on an innertube or some kind of inflatable device that can pad the bumps and open up more paths to the bottom. I had thought this was just going to be a slide, as the pool at the bottom was only about three feet deep, but the rock pool at the base of the upper waterfall was a legit swimming hole. Before coming here, I was wondering how one might use Yosemite Falls as an indicator of whether Tenaya Creek is still flowing (since Yosemite Falls has a live webcam that streams 24/7). Yosemite Falls was still flowing strongly two days ago, as was Chilnualna Creek yesterday, while Tenaya Creek was flowing more gently today. Therefore, I would guess that Tenaya probably dries up before Yosemite and Chilnualna Creeks do, meaning that most ephemeral streams in the park would probably be too high and cold for swimming when Tenaya is at optimal flow.

As for the Tuolumne River, I would be interested to explore more of it and hike to Glen Aulin in a drier year when the water is lower and warmer (it apparently gets up to 70 °F some years, according to its temperature gauge), but there was no way it was going to be pleasant under today’s conditions.
flyminion: (Jacuzzi)
2023-08-22 11:59 pm

Chilnuanla Falls & Yosemite Valley

Today, Cade and I kicked off our fifth California swimming hole marathon by hiking to Chilnualna Falls in Yosemite National Park. This creek was one of the first swimming hole spots I had put on my list when researching our first trip back in 2017, but we didn’t end up making it to Yosemite that year or on any of our other trips for one reason or another. The closest we came was in 2018, but they closed the park due to the Ferguson Fire three days before we arrived, and we couldn’t get out of our vacation rental, so we ended up having to resort to smoky backup plans outside the park. This time, we booked hotels with flexible cancellation policies, as you never know what’s going to happen in California, but I’ll admit that a tropical storm is the last thing I would have expected. The original plan was to do Chilnualna yesterday and do the touristy stuff in Yosemite Valley today, but yesterday's forecast called for scattered showers and a high of 68 °F with the remnants of Hurricane Hilary passing through, so we swapped the days and did the valley yesterday. We were hoping the weather would be better today, since this was our last day staying in Oakhurst (near the southern entrance of the park in Wawona, where Chilnualna Creek is), but it was still partly cloudy and in the low 70’s.

Chilnualna Creek boasts two sections of interest. The lower section near the trailhead features two swimming holes known as The Ledge and Honeymooners, and a short distance upstream from those (as the crow flies) is the Big Pot. I had marked another point of interest on Google Earth about a quarter mile upstream of the Big Pot, but it looked like it might be in the middle of a waterfall, so I was unsure if it would be accessible. The upper section of interest is Chilnualna Falls, which is a three-tiered waterfall about five miles up the trail. The uppermost tier features a large swimming hole at its base, and several teacup cascades above the main drop. It was unclear from pictures if the teacups were accessible, as the terrain around them looked pretty steep depending on the angle, but I was interested to find out. I knew we probably wouldn’t be able to hit all the swimming hole highlights of the creek in one day, so my main objective for today was to check out Chilnualna Falls. This meant we would probably have to come back another time to see everything on the lower section, but I still wanted to check out the Big Pot, as it had been the swimming hole that initially piqued my interest for this creek.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, Chilnualna Creek would be a great swimming hole destination in hot, perpetually sunny weather. Today’s hike offered some great views, but the cool, overcast weather made it disappointing and uninviting from a swimming hole standpoint. The increased flow and freezing cold water did not help. Chilnualna Falls was swimmable, but the creek picked up a few more tributary streams between there and the lower swimming holes, making the Big Pot a little too rough. Even though I didn’t really get into any of the pools today (other than the base of upper Chilnualna Falls for a few seconds), I’m thinking the best swimming hole would be the uppermost significant tub above Chilnualna Falls. It was large in diameter, appeared deep, and had a perfect rock diving board (if the water under it is deep, which I didn’t check). I would like to revisit Chilnualna Creek in a more typical year, so I can do a proper exploration of the Big Pot, and also check out The Ledge and Honeymooners. Even though hiking all the way to Chilnualna Falls is kind of a drag, the payoff would be worth the effort in nicer weather, so I would consider going back up there again as well.
flyminion: (Slide HC)
2023-06-18 11:59 pm

Harper Creek walk

Today, I hiked to Harper Creek Falls, but instead of taking the trail, I hiked (almost) all the way there through the creek. The forecast for today was dry, but it was unclear if it would be cloudy. I had planned to do this hike if it was clear, but I had another one in mind if it were cloudy. It was overcast in Lenoir this morning, but the hourly forecast was sunny from noon to 2 PM, and then partly cloudy after that. I decided to go ahead and do Harper, since that meant it would be sunny for most of the hike, and late afternoon clouds might dissuade me from staying at the falls too long, since I had to drive back to Raleigh afterwards. This trek seemed ideal for a day where I was either arriving or leaving, because it’s less than a four-hour drive back to Raleigh, and I wasn’t expecting it to be too strenuous since the creek only drops about 100 feet over more than a mile.

I planned to enter the creek at its confluence with Wilson Creek and creek-walk upstream to the primitive campground near the confluence with Raider Camp Creek, where the Harper Creek Trail joins with the North Carolina Mountains-to-Sea Trail (MST). On previous visits, I had caught glimpses of several sliding cascades over bedrock slabs on the quarter-mile section of creek just downstream of the falls, which I have never checked out, so I planned to re-enter the creek there and creek-walk the rest of the way to the falls.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, there are a couple of legit swimming holes (and several pockets of deep water) on the lower section of Harper Creek, but they are all forgettable in comparison to the pair of primo swimming holes at Harper Creek Falls. I'd say the new pools I found today would probably only appeal to fishermen looking for solitude upstream from the commotion of Wilson Creek Gorge.
flyminion: (Shine)
2023-06-17 11:59 pm

Linville Gorge - Conley Cove area

After driving up to the mountains last weekend, I was looking forward to a lazy weekend at home, but the forecast turned to totally sunny. However, it's supposed to be pretty rainy after this, so I figured I should take advantage of the nice weather now and chill at home when it’s rainy. Today, I continued my explorations of lower Linville Gorge by checking out some swimming holes near the Conley Cove Trail. I had scanned the 8-ish mile stretch of river between the Conley Cove Trail and Lake James on Google Earth and marked 14 points of interest (POIs), numbered in order from downstream to upstream. Last weekend, I checked out POIs 1-3, which are the farthest downstream. POIs 4-12 are located on the ~3.5 mile stretch of river between the Pinch-In Trail (on the downstream end) and the Conley Cove Trail (on the upstream end), and 13-14 are just upstream of the Conley Cove Trail. The river is easier to see from the Linville Gorge Trail (LGT) when the leaves are off the trees, so I had originally planned to scout out POIs 4-12 over Christmas break, but I got sick and wasn't able to. I decided to go ahead and knock out a few of the upstream POIs on a summer out-and-back hike, which will leave more time to explore the ones in the middle on a future thru-hike. My plan for today was to definitely check out POIs 11-14, and possibly continue as far downstream as POI 9 depending on how I was doing on time. I decided to start on the upstream end and work my way downstream, since it looked like POIs 13-14 would lose sunlight earlier in the day.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, I found some legit swimming holes today, but as with last weekend, none were terribly interesting. POI 14 was probably the most geologically striking by this excursion’s standards, but it’s just carry-over from Cathedral Gorge. If you’re going to come this far, then you might as well swim at the superior Cathedral just upstream (granted, for all its awesomeness, Cathedral loses sunlight fairly early in the afternoon). POI 12 was probably the runner-up for today, boasting a potentially doable jump of about 15 feet, but you’d have to jump out pretty far or you might break a leg. POIs 9, 11, and 13 were also legit swimming holes but were basically just deep spots in the river with no bells or whistles.

Today’s excursion has me thinking twice about trying to do a thru-hike from the Pinch-In to the Conley Cove Trail. In hindsight, I (or my car, rather) probably would have been better off if I had used the Spence Ridge Trail and just hiked the extra couple of miles. My car made it through today (although it took some abuse), but that was partly because the road was bone-dry. I don’t think I would attempt the section of road between the Cabin and Pinch-In Trails again without four-wheel drive, and that would mean wrangling two people with four-wheel drive vehicles. And from what I've seen so far, the swimming holes on this section of the river haven’t been terribly interesting, so it may not be worth the effort. As for the Conley Cove Trail itself, I would say it was a tad more strenuous than the Spence Ridge Trail, but not as bad as the Devil’s Hole, Cabin, and Unnamed (White Oak Stand) Trails.
flyminion: (Shine)
2023-06-10 11:59 pm

Flat Laurel Creek Cascades

Cascade #7Today, I finally got to tackle the waterfalls of Flat Laurel Creek, which has been up there on my wish list since the third edition of Kevin Adams’ North Carolina Waterfalls book came out in 2016. This is a stretch of creek that loses about 800 feet of elevation in a series of cascades and waterfalls over three quarters of a mile. I wasn’t sure if there would be any swimming holes, but it seemed like the creek walk would be worthwhile regardless. Also, there are a couple of roadside attractions in the immediate vicinity (Bubbling Spring Branch Cascades, Sunburst Falls on the West Fork Pigeon River), and I knew that the former had a swimming hole. I was curious to see if Sunburst Falls did as well.

The main obstacle for the Flat Laurel Creek walk is that it’s a thru-hike where you leave a vehicle at each end of the trailhead (otherwise you have to backtrack through the creek down hundreds of feet of cascades), so I needed a second person who was both willing and able to do this type of hike. My friend, Chris (who did Cave Falls with me last summer) was up for it, so we planned to do it today since the forecast was cloudless and bone-dry.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, Flat Laurel Creek lived up to my expectations and was worth the wait. It was definitely one of the best creek walks I’ve been on in terms of effort vs reward. It was a workout, but it wasn’t super strenuous or technical (for experienced off-trail hikers). Chris got through the whole thing without getting his feet wet (except for intentionally soaking them in the main swimming hole, with his shoes off). Once the cascades get going, they are pretty much non-stop all the way to the top. I wasn’t sure if there would be any legit swimming holes, but there was one at the base of cascade 7(ish). There were also a couple of smaller pools that looked like they might be legit. The creek walk would still have been worth the price of admission even if the main swimming hole hadn’t been there, but it really rounded things out. That particular spot was probably the highlight of what we saw today.

As for the roadside attractions, Bubbling Spring Branch Falls failed to impress after Flat Laurel Creek. The supposed swimming hole at the top looked kind of dinky, so unless there was something upstream that I missed, then I would say it’s probably not worthy of a return visit unless I happen to be passing by for some other reason. Sunburst Falls, on the other hand, looked like a legit swimming hole, so now I’m interested to find out if it’s a one-hit-wonder or just a sneak peak at what else the West Fork Pigeon River has to offer.
flyminion: (Shine)
2023-06-09 11:59 pm

Linville Gorge - White Oak Flats to Pinch-In

Today, I decided to begin my swimming hole explorations of the lower section of Linville Gorge (i.e., downstream of the Conley Cove Trail). I didn’t bother with this section of the gorge last summer because I hadn’t really researched it, and I assumed the river would be relatively mundane through this area. In the upper section of the gorge, the river snakes around several peninsulas while losing over 1000 feet of elevation between Linville Falls and Conley Cove over near-continuous class III-V rapids, which is conducive to geologically interesting swimming holes in low summer flows. Below Conley Cove, the river still loses about 700 feet of elevation over the 8-ish miles to Lake James, but it follows a relatively straight path through boulder-strewn areas with few named rapids. I had scanned Google Earth and marked 14 points of interest (POIs) in the lower gorge, which are numbered from downstream to upstream. My original plan was to do a winter hike to scout them out and determine which ones warranted further exploration in the summertime, since the summer foliage makes it difficult to see the river from the Linville Gorge Trail (LGT). However, I got sick over Christmas break, and the weather/my schedule were uncooperative after that, so I didn’t end up getting down there.

Accessing the gorge floor downstream of Conley Cove is more practical (er, direct) from the west rim, where there are four rim-to-floor trails (that I know of): The North Carolina Mountains to Sea Trail (MST), White Oak Stand Trail (aka the Unnamed Trail), Pinch-In Trail, and Conley Cove Trail. POIs 1-3 are in the two-ish mile stretch between White Oak and Pinch In, 4-12 are in the 3-mile stretch between Pinch-In and Conley Cove, and 13-14 are just upstream of Conley Cove. I’ll still probably save 4-12 for a winter scouting trip, given the impracticality of checking out 9 POIs without a clear view, but I figured I could do POIs 1-3 as an out-and-back hike from the White Oak Stand Trail. Allen T. Hyde’s book The Linville Gorge and Wilson Creek Hikers Guide: An Introduction also mentions two spots in this section called Blue Hole and Lunch Rock, so those were on my to-do list as well. I chose to do this hike today because I didn’t have any major expectations. I was mainly just hoping to find a nice pool where I could lie around and catch tan. The flow as of this morning was about 90 cfs, which was a bit higher than any of my previous excursions, but I wasn’t necessarily concerned since this would likely be a less turbulent stretch of river.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, POIs 1-3 and the Blue Hole were all legit swimming holes, but they were all kind of similar: large pools with rocky areas on the opposite side that offered low but somewhat sketchy jumps of 7-10 feet. I would say the best overall was POI 2, followed by POI 1. POI 3 required a slight bushwhack to get to, and the Blue Hole was mostly lined with herbaceous vegetation on the river-right side, making access annoying. Given that the swimming holes are fairly mundane, and the hike to access them is grueling, I would say they’re not worth the effort of a day trip. They are all located behind primitive campsites, so they would make nice bonuses for campers and backpackers, but I wouldn’t recommend making a special trip for them if your main objective is to go swimming.
flyminion: (Shine)
2022-09-21 11:59 pm

Lake Jocassee 2022

Lower section of Laurel Fork FallsFor the past three days, my mom and I have been kayaking on Lake Jocassee. We had been talking about going again after our trip last year, but there haven’t really been any good stretches of warm, dry weather until this week. Last year, we checked out places within out-and-back paddling distance of Devil’s Fork State Park, but we didn’t get to see all the waterfalls that spilled into the lake because the kayak shuttle was booked up that time (the kayak shuttle is a pontoon boat that hauls you and your kayaks to a drop-off point on the lake, for an exorbitant fee). The named waterfalls on the lake are Laurel Fork Falls, Mill Creek Falls, Devil’s Hole Creek Falls, Wright Creek Falls, and Bad Creek Falls (okay, the last one isn’t named, but it’s large enough to be noteworthy). We had only visited the latter two waterfalls last time, so our objective this time was to see the other three, especially Laurel Fork Falls, which looked like the highlight. The shuttle was available this time, so we were in business. There was only one available villa (#2) at the park this week, so we snagged it while we still could.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, yesterday’s excursion from Laurel Fork Falls to Devil’s Fork State Park was a pretty good paddle. The temperature was in the 80’s with barely any clouds, and there were plenty of opportunities for swimming, snorkeling, and grapes. Now that I have seen all the named waterfalls of the lake, I would say Laurel Fork Falls is easily the highlight, with Wright Creek Falls (which we saw last year) coming in second. Mill Creek Falls looked like a great swimming spot, but it’s not the most impressive of the waterfalls. Devil’s Fork Falls wasn’t that interesting because it was so cluttered with deadfall that it was hard to get a good view of it. We didn’t really go anywhere new Monday or today, but today was a nice day to revisit some of the highlights from last year. Swimming on the lower Thompson River was much more pleasant than it had been in spring of 2021, so now I can officially give those swimming holes a thumbs up. We saved a few loose ends for a future trip, including the Whitewater River arm of the lake, which apparently has some nice cascades near the mouth of the river.
flyminion: (Slide HC)
2022-09-18 11:59 pm

North Harper Creek - Part 2

The log pool on North Harper CreekToday, I finished up my explorations of North Harper Creek. I normally wrap up my swimming hole explorations around the beginning of September, since it’s usually too cool in the mountains for swimming to be pleasant after that, but I saw an unseasonably warm, dry stretch of weather coming up this week, so I decided to take the whole week off work to take advantage of it. After all, I haven’t really taken a legit vacation this summer due to the lack of dry weather here in the Carolinas, and airfare to California being super steep.

When I explored North Harper Creek last summer, I spent two weekends checking out some points of interest (POIs) I had marked on Google Earth. The first weekend was cut short when I had to abort the hike to get help for a woman having an allergic reaction to yellow jacket stings. On the second weekend, I managed to check out all of the remaining POIs I had marked, but it seemed like there might be some interesting parts of the creek that were not visible on Google Earth. I had marked seven POIs on North Harper Creek (numbered in order from upstream to downstream), and it was starting to get dark by the time I got to POI 1. After that, the trail rose high above the creek, and it sounded pretty busy between POI 1 and Chestnut Cove Branch Falls. I also had not marked any POIs upstream of North Harper Creek Falls, but there were almost certainly some cascades there judging by the noise and the amount of elevation gain (but I couldn’t see them because it was almost completely dark). My objectives for today were to creek-walk the area between POI 1 and Chestnut Cove Branch Falls, and check out the area upstream of North Harper Creek Falls in daylight.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, I didn’t find anything super noteworthy on the section of North Harper Creek I explored today. The section of the creek between POI 1 and Chestnut Cove Branch Falls was pretty uneventful, but the section above North Harper Creek Falls proved to be worth a look. There were no major swimming holes (a couple of small pools that may or may not have been deep), but there were a few cascades that were nicer than any of my marked POIs, a couple of which were at least 15 feet high. I would say the nicest one was the one that I had to scoot down the fallen tree to get to. Normally I would be bummed about not finding a swimming hole, but given the cool weather today, I was fine with just doing a creek walk.
flyminion: (Turtle)
2022-08-12 11:59 pm

Linville Gorge - Cyclops & Jailhouse

Cyclops rapidToday, I hiked back down into Linville Gorge via the Devil’s Hole Trail to tie up some loose ends from my winter scouting trip this past December. I had planned to do this during the Cave Falls excursion three weeks ago, but that trip was cut short by a surprise thunderstorm, so the loose ends were left untied. During the winter trip, I had scouted the section of the river along the Linville Gorge Trail (LGT) from the downstream end of Babel Tower to just upstream of the Devil’s Hole Trail. I didn’t get to one of my points of interest (a rapid named Cyclops, which is about 500 feet upstream of the Devil’s Hole Trail), and I found two others just upstream of Cyclops that looked like they had swimming hole potential. The first was an unnamed pool which I dubbed “Jean Grey” (since I’m an X-Men fan and it’s close to Cyclops). The other was Jailhouse, which looked like it might have a decent jump from a huge ledge boulder jutting out over the pool (by the way, all rapid names in this entry are according to American Whitewater).

I had been eyeing the weather all week, and the forecast for today had held steady with a 4% chance of rain. The water levels in the river spiked to around 400 cfs on Wednesday due to heavy rains, but it had receded below 80 cfs by this morning. However, the forecast was now mostly cloudy with a 15% chance of rain (a classic Blue Ridge bait-and-switch). In the mountains, you can generally multiply the forecasted rain chance by 3 to get the real rain chance. After last time, I was leery of trusting the forecast, so I just stayed at my parents’ house in Abingdon rather than splurging money on a hotel, and it was looking like I had made the right decision.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, Cyclops, Jean Grey, and Jailhouse were all legit swimming holes, but I don’t think any of them would make it into my top picks for the gorge. I would say Cyclops was the most geologically interesting, but the pool was either cluttered with boulders or had strong currents beneath any potential jumps. Jean Grey was not very interesting geologically, but it was easily the best of the three in terms of swimming hole functionality. It was broad, deep, and had a serviceable jump (with the caveat that I was unable to thoroughly scope the depth, and that it might be dangerous to get up onto said jump). Jailhouse had some impressive boulders (which I already knew from my winter scouting), but I wasn’t super into it today. It kind of has a closed-in feel (which I guess is how it gets its name), and it seemed like any potential jumps would require a precision landing, which would be difficult to pull off without being able to see down into the water. Not being able to thoroughly check the depth due to today’s poor water clarity was kind of a bummer. I was so focused on the water receding to swimmable levels after the past week’s rain that I neglected to consider that the silt would take longer to settle. Overall, even though it never rained, it just wasn’t a very nice day for swimming hole exploration.
flyminion: (Shine)
2022-07-23 11:59 pm

Linville Gorge - Cave Falls

Cave FallsToday, I finally got to go to Cave Falls in Linville Gorge, which has been on my to-do list for a while. I had tried to get to it alone last month by swimming through the Bob Ross Gorge and climbing up the rocks next to a rapid/small waterfall the boaters call Seal Launch Portage (aka A Good Way to Die), but I decided it was too sketchy to do alone (as with my previous entries, all rapid names are per American Whitewater and A Wet State). I’ve been trying to find people online who are into this sort of thing, and I networked with this guy Chris from Asheville who said he liked intense hikes and might be up for it, so we planned to meet up and tackle it today. Unlike my previous trips to this section of the gorge where I had used the moderate Spence Ridge Trail, today we would be using the more strenuous but more direct Devil’s Hole Trail, which loses about 1000 feet of elevation in a about a mile and meets the river about a quarter mile upstream of Cave Falls.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, Cave Falls is a pretty cool spot. It has a large swimming hole with a low jump of about six feet, and it’s surrounded by some pretty impressive geology. From what I’ve seen so far, I would say the best swimming hole in the gorge is easily Cathedral, both in terms of swimming hole functionality and geological grandeur, but Cave Falls is a contender for runner-up, along with the Bob Ross Gorge and Babel Tower Falls (the latter actually isn’t one of my top picks, but it’s a fan favorite, so I felt obligated to throw it in there). I was hoping to tie up a few loose ends from my winter scouting trip (e.g., Jailhouse) today, but we were unable to do so since the rain cut things short. After experiencing the Devil’s Hole Trail for the first time, I can say one thing for sure: I did NOT skip leg day.
flyminion: (Shine)
2022-07-22 11:59 pm

Linville Gorge - Four Foot Ledge

4 Foot Ledge rapidThe weather forecast in the mountains has been mostly rainy this month, but it looked like this Friday and Saturday (and possibly Sunday) were going to be dry, so I decided to take advantage of it. Although the rain showers this month have been frequent, they must not have been torrential in the Linville Gorge area, because the river has remained at a relatively swimmable summer flow. I decided to take advantage of this, so today I checked out a rapid called Four Foot Ledge (hereafter, 4FL) on the Linville River. This one wasn’t high on my to-do list, but I am running out of points of interest in the northern half of the gorge that would be safe not completely moronic to check out alone, and I haven’t done much research on the southern half of the gorge (I plan to focus more on that next year), so 4FL it was. In kayaking videos, it looked like a nice bedrock slide, with more bedrock slabs just downstream and possible swimming holes both above and below the rapid. However, kayaking is done in much higher water, so it’s hard to tell what this spot would look like in a summer flow. There was only one way to find out.

Four Foot Ledge is located where the river snakes around a series of peninsulas, culminating with Babel Tower, before straightening out and flowing generally south. I’m not sure if the peninsulas have names, but Allen T. Hyde mentions in his book The Linville Gorge and Wilson Creek Hikers Guide: An Introduction that there’s an unofficial side trail that he refers to as the Island Ridge Trail that goes across the ridge of the peninsula immediately to the west of Babel Tower. He also mentions a “Hyatt’s Knob”, but it is unclear if this is the Island Ridge peninsula or the next one to the west of it. For the purposes of this entry, the peninsulas (going from west to east) are Brushy Ridge, Hyatt’s Knob, Island Ridge, and Babel Tower (with the caveat that I might have the first three names wrong). While we’re on the topic of nomenclature, American Whitewater and A Wet State give conflicting names for Four Foot Ledge; the former refers to it as California Dreamin, but the latter calls it Four Foot Ledge and instead refers to Bynum Bluff Falls (a small waterfall at the base of Brushy Ridge) as California Dreamin’. I’m going to use A Wet State’s naming scheme on this entry, as they do a better job at naming the rapids upstream of Babel Tower.

Now that we have all that out of the way, 4FL is located between Island Ridge and Hyatt’s Knob. It looked like the most direct route would be to hike to Babel Tower Falls via the Linville Gorge Trail (LGT) and then follow the river upstream along the riverbank. There is another rapid called Two-Tiered Slide (hereafter, 2TS) a little less than 0.5 miles upstream of 4FL, so I was considering making a loop all the way around Hyatt’s Knob and picking up the Cabin Trail (a short but steep rim-to-river trail about a mile west of Babel Tower that ends at the western base of Hyatt’s Knob), but that would be about a mile of river-walking alone in an area not paralleled by a trail, so I was only going to try that if it looked super easy.

Click here for the full trip report with pictures and videos )

In summary, Four Foot Ledge was nothing spectacular compared to some of the other swimming holes in Linville Gorge, but it was a nice, secluded area (today, at least) with a pool for swimming and plenty of rock slabs for sunbathing. Even though the swimming hole per se was nothing special, I felt a certain affinity for this spot, perhaps due to its Californian aesthetic. I blew off Two-Tiered Slide today because river-walking all the way around Hyatt’s Knob didn’t seem like a good idea to do alone. Ascending the upper portion of the Cabin Trail turned out not to be as bad as I thought, so I might take it all the way down to the river at some point and approach Two-Tiered Slide from upstream.